Installing an Aftermarket Oil Filter Relocator Kit
By: Bob_98SR5
Written: 12/15/04
Application: 1998 4Runner V6

Addendum
The trick to getting these socketless hoses on is the following:

1. Buy the tool that holds the connectors
2. Buy the grease that is recommended for this type of socketless hose
3. Heat up the hose ends in boiling water until they are soft. I'm talking about 5 to 10 minutes.
4. Liberally apply the oil to the socket end and inside the socket hose
5. Press the hose onto the connectors. If they are not easily sliding on, you need to put them in the hot water again

Summary
I installed a Permacool oil filter relocator kit because I really don't enjoy changing my oil. Also, I don't like the placement of the current oil filter. Usually, I reach in through the driver's side wheel well and pull out the filter. But always, because the filter is inverted at a downward's angle, oil always spills out and if you're not careful pulling it out, you can drop it onto the skid plate. Sometimes it can be a pain and I was getting tired of "sometime".

The Permacool filter relocator kit will enable me to do two things: relocate the filter for easier access as well as allowing me to use a larger filter. Of course, you don't have to install a relocator kit to use a larger filter, but this just makes it that much easier. In conjunction with using Amsoil motor oil and Amsoil's large filters, I can run this oil for up to 25,000 miles or 1 year and only need to change the filter every 6 months (or 12,500 miles). I'll save money in the process too.

As is the case with my oil pressure gauge writeup, special thanks again goes out to Jsharp (Jim). Jim's advice was especially needed for this writeup.

Last note: if you're planning to do the oil pressure gauge mod and this mod, it's best to do the oil pressure gauge mod *first*, but do not install the sender. It will only get in the way of much needed space.


Step 1: Prep Work
Remove the skid plate by removing the seven 12mm bolts. You may need an extension to access all the bolts. Now drain your existing oil, remove the oil filter as shown in my oil change writeup, and then clean off the surface of the oil filter area. After all the oil has drained, bolt down the oil plug.

Remove the seven 12mm bolts (B) from the skid plate to remove		You are looking at the oil filter and pump area as seen through the left front wheelwell. Spray the rusted 8mm plug (A2) with PB Blaster. (A1) is the plug to the oil pump discharge port and (S) is the stock low oil pressure sender

Step 2: Understanding How The Parts Fit Together
Refer to the diagram below. In short, there are several adapters, hose ends, and hoses that need to be connected together. These parts will be connecting the new oil filter mount and the engine adapter itself:

As you can see here, you will need to connect adapters to the actual Engine Adapter itself and then connect Hose Ends to the adapters. On the other end, it's the same process, but its best to just connect the hoses to the hose ends first. Once done, you can connect the hose ends to the adapters and then get started on assembling your relocator system. More on that later. But first, you will need to create a sturdy bracket for your oil filter mount to mount it inside your engine bay.

Now before you ask, I'll pre-empt you: While it would be much easier to just bolt it inside the wheel wheel, I just can't stand the idea of having the filter so visible and accessible to the idiots of the world. All it takes for some punk to ruin your engine is to unscrew that filter and let you drive along your merry way.

Step 3: Creating a Bracket
After consulting with JSharp, I decided to copy his right angle bracket idea. While I was not able to find an identical bracket, I did find something very similar and very sturdy in Home Depot's fence aisle. It's a steel Stanley fence bracket. It even has pre-drilled holes.

First, remove the battery by unhooking the battery cables. Move the battery and the tray out of the way for more room. Next, eyeball a good location for your bracket. For mine, I wanted to utilize at least one of the holes with my bracket's holes. I aligned the pre-existing hole and then I made some cut marks with a Sharpie in the bracket itself.

Here's the space where you'll mount the bracket. Notice the battery has been removed		Black mark on bracket denotes a cut line. The bracket will need some serious grinding to make it fit

Regarding the last point, the battery's weight is reinforced by some "wavy" metal that is welded onto the inner body itself (see pic above). These get in the way of the holes. Thus, you'll have to trim some of your bracket away in order to allow the bracket to fit underneath the wavy support metal.

To do this, there was quite a bit of trial and error---and a lot of cutting and grinding. I finally used my bench grinder to grind away at the bracket until it looked like the pic below.

Next, in order to make sure the bracket would stay in place and support the weight of the oil filter and mount, I needed to drill another hole in the metal. So place your bracket in place and then stick the bolt through and secure it at the other end. Go to your fender wheel well and then use your Sharpie to mark the hole. Use a drill press (best) to drill a nice, clean hole. Also regarding the bracket itself, the bracket length is pretty long and so it needs to be trimmed, but do this after you've mounted the oil filter mount onto the bracket in the next step.

This is a shot from the wheel well. The bolt protruding from hole (2) is the only bolt than can be fitted through the test-fitted bracket (other side). You will have to mark a hole (1) with a sharpie and drill that out from the bracket		After drilling the hole, test fit holes 1 and 2 with a bolt and nuts on the other side. Note how the top edge and left side of the bracket has been seriously grinded to fit all the waves and curves inside this area

Step 4: Modifying the Orientation of the Oil Filter Mount on the Bracket
Because I want to use the larger Amsoil SDF-34 oil filter, I needed to offset the filter at an angle. Otherwise, mounting it perfectly vertical makes the bottom of the oil filter hit the frame rail.

Like the filter bracket itself, I wanted to utilize at least one of the stock holes on the bracket itself and the oil filter mount. See the diagram below:

As mentioned above, the oil filter mount does not sit parallel to the bracket---it sits at an angle. Keeping with the "utilizing one hole" principle, I secured that one hole into the bracket's hole with a nut and bolt and then used a Sharpie to mark the second hole for drilling. After marking, remove the oil filter mount and take your bracket to your drill press for drilling. Test fit and then move onto the next step.

Test fit without the filter		Test fit with the long Amsoil SDF-34 filter. Note: the filter is NOT touching the radiator hose

Step 5: Connecting the Engine Adapter Parts and Hoses
First, install the rubber O-ring to the underside of the engine adapter. Don't forget this very crucial step. Next, wrap about 2-3 wraps of teflon tape around both straight adapters. Use a crescent wrench to wrench in these adapters into the engine adapter. Next, wrap about 2-3 wraps of teflon tape around the exposed ends of the adapters that you just mounted. Finish by wrenching down the vertical hose ends to them.

For the socketless hoses, do a test fitting by running the hoses from end to end. Take the measurement and then
cut about an inch or two more just to be safe. My hoses ran around 16 to 17 inches.

After figuring out the proper length of hose, liberally douse the hose ends and the inner portion of the hoses with Aeroquip's lubrication fluid or 5W-30 oil. Insert the hose over the hose ends and get ready for the time of your life---these son's-a-b###hes are TOUGH to get on! I could not get these hoses completely flush with the hose ends. Nevertheless, the connection seems pretty solid. Repeat for the other hose.

Now each side of the engine adapter is marked either "IN" or "OUT". So for the "IN" side of the hose (engine adapter side), mark on the other end of the hose with the word "OUT". For the hose attached to the "IN" side of the engine adapter, mark the other end of the hose with the word "IN". That way you easily know on the other end, which side to connect it to.

Teflon coat and wrench down the threads on adapter (A); repeat for Hose End (H). Secure hoses (B) and try to avoid gaps (G).		Mark the appropriate hose ends "IN" and "OUT". Pay attention to this step or your engine may be severely damaged if you don't follow the instructions!

Or simply put for those who've inhaled one too many exhaust pipes:

So I'll repeat this as warning: DO NOT CONNECT THE "IN" SIDE OF THE ENGINE ADAPTER TO THE "IN" SIDE OF THE OIL FILTER ADAPTER AND VICE VERSA!

Now after attaching the engine adapter side hoses, move onto the oil filter mount hoses. First, remove the test-fitted bracket and oil filter mount from the inside of your engine bay. Next, spin off the oil filter and then remove the oil filter mount from the bracket. Following the same process for teflon taping and wrenching down the adapters and hose ends. The best order and process in my opinion is to wrench down the adapters to the oil filter mount, connect the hoses to the hoses, and then bolt down the bracket itself (not including the oil filter mount) to the engine bay.


Step 6: Mounting the Engine Oil Adapter and Oil Filter Mount
First, turn your wheels to the left so as to allow some more room to access your front wheel well. Next, stick in the engine oil adapter through the wheel wheel flap and get it to the general location of the OEM oil filter mount. Check to see that O-ring gasket is firmly seated within it and then screw in the engine oil adapter until very snug. Since the hose is thick, you'll probably need to assist it while turning and screwing in the engine oil adapter.

Here is the adapter pushed through the engine wheel well		Here is the engine oil adapter tightened down (E). The large brass item (O) is my aftermarket oil sender

After screwing the engine oil adapter down, push the hose ends through and route them up towards the top and alongside the alternator. JSharp routed them behind a wire bundle but I chose not to. Now that you have them in position, teflon tape the adapters on your oil filter mount and then wrench down the hose ends to it. After doing so, bolt down the entire oil filter mount to the bracket.

Route the hoses upwards and towards the front of the engine bay (R)		Tighten down the hose/hose ends to the oil filter mount and then bolt that down to the bracket.

Step 7: Re-Oiling and Testing
First, fill your oil filter with motor oil and then connect it to the oil filter mount. Of note, you may be suprised at how much oil can be stored inside the larger filter. I was almost able to put a whole quart in the Amsoil SDF-34 oil filter. Next, pour 5 quarts into the oil receptacle. Check your dipstick to make sure that there is sufficient oil within the acceptable range (marks) on the dipstick.

Always use the best for your engine! If you need Amsoil, I'm an independent dealer and I would love to have your business :)

Ok, now for the big moment: fire it up! If you did everything right, there should not be any leaks. The one place where I found a leak was the oil filter and oil filter mount. I did not have it screwed down as hard as it should have. I guess that was years and years of "hand tightening with a quarter twist". Here are some oily "glamor shots" of the installation. Note the gaps between the hose ends and the hoses. They're not huge, but not flush.

Rant 1
First, I must have to make a huge criticism of Permacool's customer service. My rubber O-ring was slightly torn and I did not want to use it for that reason. Thus, I gave them a call. They transferred me to a gentlemen who quite bluntly stated that "we don't send out replacement parts...you'll be able to find those O-rings at a local auto parts store". I even offered to come down to their plant and pay for it too, but my offer was refused. Lame.

Rant 1.5
Regarding the Aeroquip socketless hoses and hose ends, unless you have a trick and/or incredible hand strength, don't bother because these things are pretty difficult to get them flush with the hose ends. This delayed and frustrated me most with this project. But if anyone knows the "secret", please email me back. Otherwise, the quality of their products is top notch. My advice for people who don't want to go through the time and hassle with these products is to buy the old fashioned braided steel lines with the appropriate connectors. It will be much faster and painless to install.

Praise!
Turns out, they were not so easy to find. I had to go to a more specialized auto parts store (Ernie's in Monrovia, CA). What they had to do was to order me a pack of O-rings for which only one fit the filter mount. Hey Ernies, you guys are the best! Those guys spent about 10 minutes trying to find this pack of O-rings for me. Ernies will have my future business for sure.

Questions or feedback? Email me and I'll try to get back to you. If this article helped you save time, money or just made things more convenient for you, please consider donating to keep this site alive.